Some glasses from 3D systems dedicated to LCD display (i.e. So that in 3D it will not switch fast enough from a picture to the next, leading to ghosting ( you can see left picture on right side and vice versa). When a LCD panel display a picture, the previous one is still remnant. Indeed old crt TV and monitors, plasma TV, DLP projectors can display a picture instantly and switch entirely to a new one 100 times per second, but for a LCD panel it's far to be an easy task. If your TV is 60Hz but you still want to try 3d on it, the LCD panel will probably be way to slow. > so your TV need to be capable to receive this signal. Personally I suggest to use 85Hz at worst, leading to 96HZ/100Hz/120Hz or 144Hz for more standard frequencies. Of course, you can achieve frame sequential output with a PC.ĭefault video stream on hdmi runs at 60Hz or 24Hz, which if you plan to use alternate Right/Left frame is really sub-optimal -> you will have flickering. equential/ or and I'm not sure the products are good. You could circumvent this issue by using a device capable to convert hdmi frame packed 3D into frame sequential. To achieve this two things, the TV require to have a 3D capable HDMI input chip with 3D capability listed into it's EDID rom. Whatever If you plan to use it with a playstation 3 or 4 or any blura圓D reader, it will not work, because they:ġ°) need to know that your TV is 3D capable.Ģ°) will not output frame sequential but frame packed 3D signal. The flickering on 60Hz, and worst, 50Hz TV was unbearable. Outrun 3D on SEGA master system ran, it's true, but like all TV 3D tek of this time, the experience was well, "suboptimal" and was source of joke. Well, no it's just part of the work, even on glasses side.
#3d converter for tv with glass professional#
Unfortunately the polar tint supposed to be made for specific model, it is not as simple as hooking up a few wires and therefore needs a professional screen tinter. The other idea I had was not as practical is an aftermarket polar shield tinting service to turn any TV into a polar 3D TV.
#3d converter for tv with glass how to#
If so I think I got an idea of how to do it and I submitted the idea to Bulbhead because I think it is probably one of the cheaper ways to do it and more accurately to do it. Is it correct to assume that 95%+ of the problems with 3D TV using shutter glasses is mis-timing. Is it correct to assume that once you figure out how to get the "start of TV frame signal" synced up with the output of the TV display and not the output of the signal generation, then everything else should fall into place. I know the bits and pieces have worked before in other technologies and I'm just assembling the pieces together in my mind. I think I have theorized a way to turn any 2D TV into 3D TV. That's why all 3D TVs with shutter glasses had to be integrated so that it could get the timing right. I heard that any TV works as long as the shutter synchers know when beginning of the frame starts.
Sega proved it was possible with the Sega Master System Sega Scope 3D. I told Dad to wait until they come up with a 3D add-on kit for current 2D TVs. That's when I noticed 3D hatred became big enough where all the big 3D TV makers decided to premiumize 3D and put them on the more expensive models instead of putting them on Johnny lunch pail models. I bought my PlayStation 3D TV at exactly the right time when it was $180 new in December of 2012.